We visited Ghibli Museum in September 2016.
If you don’t know what Ghibli Studios is, you should probably stop right now and go watch My neighbor Totoro, Ponyo on the Cliff, Kiki’s delivery Service, Grave of the Fireflies and all the other movies. I’m serious.
If you’ve seen the movies, and you love them, like I do, you should know that there’s a Ghibli Museum in Tokyo. It’s the most adorable museum in the entire world. Unfortunately, it’s small museum and visitation is limited, so you should buy your tickets before going to the museum, as they aren’t sold there.
We’d just arrived in Japan the day before. We hadn’t even rested properly, but there was one thing we had to do: buy the tickets to visit Ghibli Museum, in Tokyo. It was early September, we had 2 weeks, the first and the last of the month, to visit the museum, the only 2 we were spending in Tokyo.
I hadn’t even warmed up my Japanese but we found a Lawson store and went for it. I asked at the counter and one of the staff came out to help me. Well, guess what? It was sold out. For the whole month. The. Whole. Month.
I was devastated. He told me that the tickets for October would start selling on the following week and that I should try to buy it first thing Monday morning.
It was not the best way to start the trip, really. I was destroyed. I felt so stupid for not buying it upfront. So stupid! I thought NZ$ 40 per adult was way too expensive, that we should buy in Japan, as it cost JP¥ 1000/adult. With the price for one adult in NZ, we could buy tickets for the whole family if we bought in Japan.
I checked for 2 months, and I saw that there was always one or 2 days available even in the last days, so I was very confident it would work perfectly fine.
When it didn’t I was desperate.
Angelo found out that there was a Ghibli Exhibition at Roppongi and we accepted our fate. It was our third Japan day when I was looking for ways to buy the ticket for the Exhibition when I saw that there were 2 spots for the Museum available. I tried for hours to buy it online and it didn’t accept my name, so Angelo headed to Lawson (alone, it was midnight) and bought the tickets. It did take him an hour, but he managed it! I was never so happy to have a few pieces of paper in my hands than then. It was the last session of the day, on our last week in Japan.
We woke up early on the day and were super excited! We left home at 1 pm and our time was from 16:00. Our idea was to arrive early, spend some time at the café and stay as much as we could at the museum. We had ramen near Shinjuku Station and left.
We arrived at Mitaka Station at 2:20. We didn’t know if we were walking to the museum or taking the bus, so we decided to go check the time for the next bus but we did take a while to find the bus stop. We must’ve looked very lost because a gentleman asked us what we were looking for and showed us the way. When we got there, the bus was arriving and we barely had the time to buy the tickets. The tickets sold on the machine are for return trip only: if you’re planning to take a one-way trip, pay to the driver.
But let me tell you about the bus: it was yellow and it had characters all over it. It even had Makkuro Kurosuke (Black Suits) on the inside. The driver was nice and waited until we bought our tickets. Inside the bus, there was a screen showing the next stations. It was a regular bus, but it was adorable. I just think it should be a Neko-bus (Cat bus, from My Neighbour Totoro). 😛
It’s a circular line, so you can take the same bus at the same stop to leave the Museum.
When we arrived at the Museum, there were people at the bus stop showing us the way in and organizing the line for the people waiting to board the bus. The museum is next to Mitaka Park and is surrounded by trees, such a beautiful sight. We got there a bit before 3 and we were told we could only enter at 4, and the café would be open until 7 pm so everyone could enjoy it. The super nice lady also said that we should come back at 3:40 because they would open up earlier. First, we went to pretend to buy some tickets from Totoro himself. Awww, so adorable! It was really great.
So we had 40 minutes to spare and we decided to go to the park. It was full of mosquitos. Really full. All of us ended up full of itchy lumps. Horrible. Despite the little flying demons, Coral had fun playing at the playground and the older kids spent their time chatting at the bench.
At 3:30 we decided to head back and there was already a line. We waited patiently and in 5 minutes or so we were guided to the counter, where we received the film strip ticket, which is just the most adorable ticket ever. Coral was called Kiki due to her clothes (I hadn’t even realized until it was pointed out), but she found it fun in the end.
After feeling enchanted with the gorgeous tickets, we finally entered the beautiful museum and we were in awe.
It was so perfect, so awesome, so amazing!
(and we have no photos of the inside because photos are not permitted)
The first room was the most magical room in the entire museum, it had all the ‘tricks’ of how animations are made. It’s just amazing, full of incredible and unbelievable things. I can’t even explain nor describe, all I can say is that we spent a lot of time there.
OK, I’ll try to explain the thing I loved most, which was a circular rotating table with little Totoro characters. It had loads of Totoros, Meis, and other characters, each one picturing them jumping, walking and all, a bit differently from the others. It was full os consecutive scenes. There were loads of Meis, on one she was on the floor, on the next, she was preparing to jump, and then, she was jumping, and getting higher, and coming down, until she touched the ground again. Around her, Totoro was jumping over a mushroom and the Black Suits were running around, a bat was flying and all in little statues. When the table rotated fast, it looked like they were actually jumping and playing. So really awesome!
The shop is just lovely, but it was so full we couldn’t see anything properly. If we stopped by something, we were pushed in a few seconds. Sad. But we bought postcards and a tin of biscuits, which was pretty good. We even shipped our tin to NZ, hope it arrives there. Everything was beautiful but super expensive. Melissa wanted a Laputa pendant, but it cost over JP¥ 20 000 (around US$ 200) and she gave it up. I wanted a Jiji pendant and a wallet but couldn’t find it. It was super hard to choose the postcards. I wanted all of them for me.
Melissa loved the room that simulated the room the artists use to do the film art, full of books, pens, pencils, watercolor and all the artistic things, plus the paintings and drawings on the walls. We could’ve spent all of our time there and not even noticing. My kids found it hard to imagine someone making one painting as beautiful as those and not use them for anything.
There was also the books of strips that had the whole movie in it, comic style, handmade. That was unbelievably detailed, so pretty I wanted to keep it. We saw 5 books of one single movie, and they were all around 200 pages each.
One thing we all loved a lot was an actual size Neko-bus (Cat-bus). It was fluffy all around, I loved it! It was a dream come true, to sit there and feel like Totoro.
Howl’s Castle’s replica was so cool! It even had the clothes hanging from the windows, the bathroom could be seen from outside, it was perfect!
There was even a library (and a bookstore), full of great and gorgeous books! Even the toilets are stunning!
To be really honest, there were so many amazing rooms I’m sure I’m forgetting a lot of things. You can see the areas on the official website.
The kiddie playground was not tested by us as Coral was too scared of the other kids to try it and José and João felt a bit ashamed of playing in midst of 3-year-olds. It looked so cute, I wanted to play there, really. Such a shame I couldn’t.
On the bottom floor, there’s a little cinema theater and everyone can watch the short animation once with the film strip ticket. When we went, the film showing was Yadosagashi (Looking for Home) and it was super funny. The films change every month, and I’m pretty sure they’re all worth it.
But then, my favorite place of all was outside. The stairs that take you to the Laputa giant was pretty, but that enormous super detailed perfect giant won my heart. He is my favorite character of all, along with Totoro, and seeing it up close like that was just magical. My kids loved it also, and they had a wonderful time discovering little details. It was great. Being high up, surrounded by green, with that amazing giant just made us feel like we were really in Laputa.
Our last stop that day was the Mugiwara Boushi (Straw Hat) Café, the café inside Ghibli Museum.It had a long line, we waited for around 30 minutes (sitting down) for our table. Since it would close soon, we were given the menus and we chose our food at the line. The café was super cute, with lots of straw hats hanging by the door, a fireplace, rock chair and all. The plates have Ghibli characters on them and most food come with Ghibli banners. The food itself was lovely, it’s worth the money and the wait. We tried only the desserts, but all the people around us were saying their food was delicious, so I’m just passing the message. If you don’t feel like waiting in line, they also sell hot dogs, ice cream and a few other things outside. No air conditioning, though.
It was totally worth all the trouble, the stress, and the money. I loved everything (except the no photo rule) from beginning to end, and so did everyone else in the family. It was one of the loveliest things we did while in Japan.
They seem to have updated the website and now they have a step by step ‘How to buy the tickets on the Lawson machines’, which would’ve saved Angelo about 40 minutes of his evening. The machines were in Japanese only and the staff doesn’t necessarily speak English, so it is a good help.
The tickets give you a time slot, and you must visit the park during the time in your ticket. You must enter within the first 30 minutes, which means that if your ticket says 14:00~16:00, you must be there until 14:30. I don’t know how strict they are, but Japanese are very punctual, so I wouldn’t even try. I’m also not encouraging you to buy your tickets in Japan or before arriving. I’m not even sure what I’d do if I were to try it again.
Where’s your favorite museum? Let us know in the comments!